Dimethicone

Dimethicone is one of the most common silicones in haircare products. It's an extremely effective conditioner, but it has earned the ire of many because of its tendency to build up.

What is Dimethicone

Dimethicone is a type of silicone used in haircare products, that is very effective at coating the hair shaft. As a coating, it helps smooth (de-frizz) and protect the hair.

Silicones have a low surface energy, which allows them to spread over the hair with ease. They can form a shield against damage such as heat damage from blow drying and straightening. Yet, they also remain water permeable so they don't "suffocate" the hair.

Some silicones are water-soluble, but dimethicone is not, so it will not wash off with just water.

Why do people with curly/wave hair avoid dimethicone?

Dimethicone's coating properties are also why many people in the curly hair community prefer to avoid it. That coating, while protective, isn't easy to remove, especially if you're not using a strong shampoo. So if you're using very gentle shampoo or cowash, you probably want to avoid water-insoluble silicones like Dimethicone.

Many popular curly hair authors also recommend avoiding silicones like dimethicone.

Lorraine Massey recommended avoiding silicones like dimethicone in her famous book Curly Girl: The Handbook.

Silicone. This synthetic material is the active ingredient in many conditioners and 99 percent of shine products. Often used in manufacturing rubber, plastics, and polishes, it’s actually made to repel water and isn’t biodegradable. So any product with silicone in it will act as a seal around the cuticle, preventing the absorption of moisture. Silicone can also weigh down your curls, preventing their natural shape from emerging.

What do hair experts say about Dimethicone?

Our table looks at references from various sources to see what they have to say about Dimethicone

In general most cosmetics chemists and dermatologists agree that it can be useful and effective, but prone to build-up. Our curly hair experts and authors are split. Teri Laflesh from Tightly Curly, author of Curly Like Me actually loves dimethicone for its smoothing properties. But Lorraine Massey of Curly Girl: The Handbook says to avoid all silicones no matter what.

One point of expert consensus is that cowashes and gentle detergents are unlikely to effectively remove dimethicone. Therefore, dimethicone may not be suitable for routines that do not incorporate a stronger shampoo.