Alcohols

Alcohols are a diverse set of chemicals that serve many different purposes in haircare products.

Types of alcohols

Alcohols are a diverse group but the two main scientific categories in haircare products

• Short-chain alcohols: I think of these alcohols as being "short tempered" like their short chains. They don't like to stick around, they like to evaporate. In haircare they can be drying and irritating. An example would be alcohol denat.
• Long-chain alcohols: These alcohols couldn't be more different than short-chain. They are oily, moisturizing and considered good for the hair and skin. An example would be cetyl alcohol.

Are short-chain alcohols bad for curly hair?

While they can be drying and irritating, short-chain alcohols can also be perfectly fine. This might seem boring but as always it depends on the formulation.

The cosmetic chemists at Beauty Brains note that in the case of a conditioner with isopropyl alcohol, it's part of the manufacturing process and only present in small amounts. Short-chain alcohols are useful as solvents, which means they help dissolve other ingredients.

Lorraine Massey recommends avoiding short-chain alcohols in gels in Curly Girl: The Handbook.

The right gel will leave your hair frizz-free and touchable, and all you’ll hear is how curlicious you look! Certain alcohols, like cetyl alcohol, are okay if they’re in a cleanser, but those used in gels can be extremely drying for hair and cause frizz. Plus, unlike cleansers, which get rinsed out quickly, gel lives in a curly girl’s locks for a day or more. If the gel contains alcohol, it will spend those days sucking up your strands’ moisture and will prevent new hydration from getting in.

She also mentions to avoid alcohol in cleansers

When I mention “cleanser” I always mean a sulfate-free cleanser, by “conditioner” I mean a botanical conditioner, and by “gel” I mean one that’s free of harsh ingredients such as alcohol and silicone.

How CurlsBot classifies alcohols

In Curlsbot:

• Short-chain alcohols = drying alcohols
• Long-chain alcohols = emollient alcohols

But of course as you read above, it's a lot more complicated than that! We recommend some products that have these so-called "drying alcohols" if it's in small amounts or in a product that is not meant to stay on hair

We also have a few alcohols in "other alcohols" that we need to research more