Understanding Hair Coloring Options
Many people want to maintain their curly hair care routine while still enjoying the creative freedom of hair coloring. While most conventional hair dyes contain ingredients that can be damaging or leave buildup, there are several curl-friendly options available in 2024.
Henna: 100% natural but is it good for curls?
Henna and curls could be the subject of an entire blog post on its own, but here's a summary of the most important points.
Henna has a gotten a bad reputation because of products labeled "henna" that are not actually henna. These products are often made with metal salts and other chemicals that can damage the hair and react with other dyes and bleach.
If you use 100% pure henna from a reputable source, it is an excellent choice for dye. It strengthens and conditions the hair, and the color never fades.
What's the catch?
- It is 100% permanent and cannot be removed.
- Color options are limited. Henna itself is just orange red, you can mix with indigo to get browns and blacks.
- It takes time to research and learn the process, create your mix, apply it, and wait for it to work. Average time is 3-6 hours to dye hair with natural henna, not including the time to prepare the dye, which is best when it is dye released overnight.
- And the most important one for curls: it is known to weigh down curls because it bonds to the hair.
So maybe it is both truly the best and worst dye for curls. It won't damage them, but it will make them softer. Some people want that, others don't. I have used henna for many years and my hair is definitely more wavy than curly, but I love the way it looks.
Some people report that using amla, an Indian herb that is mixed in with henna, can help with curl retention. There isn't a ton of research on this, but it is worth a try.
This is the henna mix I use:
- Amla: For dye release, you mix it in with the henna and distilled and wait overnight. Amla is supposed to help with curl retention and to achieve a cooler color.
- Rajastani Twilight Henna
I also use Ancient Sunrise's rainwash to clarify my hair before dyeing.
You can also get Ancient Sunrise's products in a kit form with all the ingredients pre-measured. I find that kits and making your own mix is the best way to go, in terms of being able to control what color you get.
Tips for Using Henna:
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Source Quality Products: Purchase from reputable brands that sell pure, body-art quality henna like Ancient Sunrise. Avoid compound henna or products with added ingredients.
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Proper Preparation:
- Always do a strand test
- Clarify hair thoroughly before application
- If you have hard water, use a chelating treatment first
- Consider using protein-free products afterward as henna provides protein-like benefits
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Research: Read Ancient Sunrise's comprehensive henna guide before starting.
Community Support
For ongoing support and advice, join the Reddit Henna Community. This active community (moderated by CurlsBot's creator) is a great resource for learning about henna, troubleshooting issues, and seeing real results from other users.
Direct Dyes: A Temporary Option
Direct dyes are sometimes called "semi-permanent" dyes. They are a perfect option for those who don't want the commitment of henna or the damage of oxidative permanent dyes. Oxidative permanent dyes changed the sturcture of your hair, while direct dyes just leave a stain of color on the surface.
The main disadvantage is that they are not permanent and will wash out over time. Plus they cannot lighten your hair and may not have as much of an effect on dark hair.
Most have silicones, but I recently found one that's silicone-free called Glaze. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm excited to see how it works.
A potential alternative is non-henna herbal dyes, but they are usually not very effective and more research is needed. If you're interested in the subject, join the Natural Hair Dye Subreddit, which I moderate.
Chemical Dyes: Making Them Work
While chemical dyes will always cause some level of damage, you can minimize the impact on your curls with the right approach.
The best choice is to see a professional. They can use a gentler technique like balayage or demi-permanent color.
"Herbal" box dyes
These are conventional oxidative box dyes that are marketed as "herbal" or "natural". They are not 100% natural, but they may be gentler than other box dyes.
Post-Dye Care
Chemical dyes typically make hair more porous (high porosity). In terms of curlsbot ingredients analysis, look for products that have mild detergents.
Some curly hair products are designed for colored hair. For example, Innersense's "Awaken Color" line:
CurlsBot
